Tumbatu Island: Guide to Zanzibar's Most Mysterious and Closed Island
Tumbatu Island is probably the most enigmatic and least accessible of all the islands in the Tumbatu archipelago. Zanzibar. Located northwest of the main island, this small island barely 8 kilometers long is home to the WaTumbatu, an ethnic community that has kept its traditions almost intact for centuries and has historically been extremely closed to tourism. Unlike other Zanzibari islands that embrace visitors, Tumbatu maintains strict restrictions on who can visit and what can be done there. In this guide I tell you the facts about visiting Tumbatu Island, what to expect, the current limitations and whether it is really worth trying to visit.
What is Tumbatu Island and where is it?
Tumbatu Island is the third largest island of the Zanzibar archipelago (after Unguja and Pemba), located about 3 km off the northwest coast of Zanzibar, off the beaches of Kendwa and Nungwi. With a population of approximately 3,000 inhabitants, the island is about 8 km long by 2 km wide.
What makes Tumbatu unique is not its size or its beaches, but its people: the WaTumbatu are an extremely conservative ethnic Swahili community that has maintained its traditions, language (a specific dialect of Swahili) and lifestyle virtually unchanged for centuries. According to anthropological studies cited by the University of Dar es SalaamThe WaTumbatu are descendants of some of the earliest Swahili populations in the region and have actively resisted cultural assimilation.
The facts about visiting Tumbatu Island
Here comes the important part that many guidebooks do not tell you clearly: Tumbatu Island is NOT an open tourist destination. Visiting the island is complicated, in some cases impossible, and in other cases only allowed in very limited areas.
Current restrictions for tourists on Tumbatu Island
The WaTumbatu traditionally do not welcome outside visitors for cultural and religious reasons. The community is predominantly conservative Muslim and sees tourism as a threat to their traditions and way of life.
What you CANNOT do in Tumbatu:
Disembark freely on any beach
Walking in the interior of the island without permission.
Visiting villages without specific invitation
Photographing people without explicit permission
Overnight stay (no tourist accommodations)
Wearing beachwear/swimsuit outside specific zones
What you CAN do (with limitations) on Tumbatu Island:
Guided tours organized by approved operators in specific areas
Snorkeling and diving in the reefs around the island (without disembarkation)
Visit to historic ruins on the south coast (with local guide)
Limited interaction at the fish market if you are invited by a local
Why is Tumbatu Island so closed?
Tumbatu's resistance to tourism has deep roots:
Cultural preservation: The WaTumbatu fear that mass tourism will destroy their traditions, as has happened in other parts of Zanzibar.
Religious values: The community is conservative Muslim and considers it inappropriate for tourists in beachwear to invade their space.
Negative past experiences: In previous decades, some tourists did not respect local customs, generating conflicts.
Autonomy: The WaTumbatu value their independence and self-determination over their territory.
This attitude must be respected. Tumbatu Island is not an "undiscovered destination" that we should "open to tourism", but a community that has consciously chosen to protect its way of life.
What to see in Tumbatu Island (if you manage to visit it)
If you get an authorized tour or have local contacts, these are the main attractions:
Mkumbuu Ruins on Tumbatu Island
On the south coast of Tumbatu are the ruins of Mkumbuu, an ancient Swahili settlement dating from the 13th-14th century. The ruins include the remains of an ancient mosque, pillar tombs (typical of the Swahili coast) and foundations of coral houses.
Mkumbuu was once an important city in the Indian Ocean trading network. The ruins are testimony to the former grandeur of Tumbatu before its population was concentrated in smaller villages.
Access: Only with an authorized local guide. The hike from the landing point takes about 30 minutes.
The coral reefs around Tumbatu
The reefs surrounding Tumbatu Island are among the best preserved in Zanzibar precisely because the island has limited access. The marine life is spectacular:
Hard and soft corals in excellent condition
Wide variety of tropical fish
Sea turtles (especially green turtles)
Occasionally dolphins
Crystal clear waters with exceptional visibility
Access: Snorkeling and diving tours from Nungwi or Kendwa can go to the reefs of Tumbatu without landing on the island. This is the most feasible way to "visit" Tumbatu.
Traditional villages (very limited access) on Tumbatu Island
The villages of Tumbatu are examples of traditional Swahili settlements with coral and makuti (palm leaf roofs) houses. However, do not assume that you can visit them. Only if you have direct contact with a villager who invites you, or through very specific tours organized with the community, will you be able to gain access.
How to visit Tumbatu Island (realistic options)
Option 1Snorkeling / diving tour to the reefs in Tumbatu Island
The most accessible and respectful option. Numerous operators in Nungwi and Kendwa offer snorkeling or diving excursions to the reefs around Tumbatu without landing on the island.
Price40-70 USD per person (half-day)
Includes: Boat transportation, snorkeling/diving equipment, guide
Does not include: Access to the island (because you don't disembark)
Recommended operators:
- Spanish Dancer Divers (Nungwi)
- East Africa Diving (Nungwi)
- One Ocean Dive Center (Kendwa)
Option 2: Organized cultural tour in Tumbatu Island with community permit
Some specialized operators have agreements with the waTumbatu community for very limited and respectful tours.
Price100-150 USD per person
IncludesTransportation, local guide in Tumbatu, community permit, visit to the ruins of Mkumbuu.
Duration: 3-4 hours
Restrictions: Small groups (maximum 6-8 persons), modest dress required, limited photography.
These tours are rare and not always available. Ask in:
- Eco+Culture Tours (Stone Town)
- Sama Tours (direct contact with communities)
Option 3: Direct contact with local fishermen on Tumbatu Island
If you are in Nungwi or Kendwa, you may meet fishermen from Tumbatu who come to sell their catch. Some, on rare occasions, may offer you a ride to the island. However, this does not guarantee full access and depends entirely on individual goodwill.
Important: Do not offer money directly without them asking for it. If you are invited, you can offer to contribute to the boat's gasoline.
Activities around Tumbatu Island
Snorkeling in the reefs of Tumbatu
As mentioned, this is the most accessible activity. The reefs north and east of Tumbatu are spectacular:
Mwana wa Mwana ReefAt the northern end, this reef has impressive coral formations with large colonies of brain and fan coral. Depth: 5-15 meters.
Hunga ReefEast of Tumbatu, excellent for turtle watching. Gentle currents, ideal for beginners.
Best time: October-March (best visibility), although feasible all year round.
Advanced diving in Tumbatu Island
For certified divers, there are deeper sites (20-30 meters) with coral walls, caves and a greater chance of seeing large species such as barracudas, jacks and eagle rays.
Traditional fishing with locals in Tumbatu Island
Some operators offer traditional fishing experiences with Tumbatu fishermen using traditional methods (hand lines, no nets). This is a respectful way to interact with the local culture.
Price: 60-90 USD half day
Includes: Boat, local fisherman as guide, basic fishing equipment.
What NOT to do on Tumbatu Island
To avoid problems and show respect:
❌ Do not attempt to disembark on your own by chartering a boat. You may face justified hostility.
❌ Do not photograph people without explicit permission, especially women. It is considered extremely disrespectful.
❌ Do not wear beach clothes if you manage to enter the island. Cover shoulders and knees (both men and women).
❌ Do not drink alcohol or wear visible. Tumbatu is a conservative Muslim community.
❌ Don't assume you can go anywhere. Stay in the areas your guidebook indicates.
❌ Do not offer money to children. If you want to contribute, ask your guide how to support community projects.
Comparison: Tumbatu vs other islands of Zanzibar
Tumbatu Island vs Prison IslandPrison Island is fully open to tourism with giant tortoises as an attraction. Tumbatu is closed and focused on cultural preservation.
Tumbatu vs Mnemba IslandMnemba is private and exclusive (luxury resort), but accepts tourists with money. Tumbatu rejects tourism regardless of money.
Tumbatu vs PembaPemba is open to tourism but less developed. Tumbatu is actively closed by community decision.
Tumbatu vs Chumbe IslandChumbe is a successful ecotourism project with controlled access for preservation. Tumbatu is community control for cultural preservation.
Is it worth trying to visit Tumbatu Island?
The honest answer depends on your expectations:
It is worthwhile YES:
- You understand and respect the limitations
- You are genuinely interested in traditional Swahili culture.
- You are willing to hire respectful and fairly paid tours.
- You settle for snorkeling on the reefs without setting foot on the island.
- You value authenticity over tourist convenience.
NO is NOT worth YES:
- You expect an "island paradise" experience with total freedom.
- You want beaches for free sunbathing and swimming
- You are bothered by cultural restrictions
- You are looking for tourist infrastructure (restaurants, bars, hotels).
- You want to take a lot of photos for social networks
According to Tanzania Cultural Tourismrespect for communities that choose not to participate in mass tourism is fundamental to sustainable and ethical tourism.
Alternatives to Tumbatu Island in Zanzibar
If Tumbatu seems too complicated, consider these alternatives:
For exceptional snorkeling/diving: Mnemba Atoll (more accessible, equally spectacular)
For authentic Swahili cultureStone Town and hinterland villages such as old Nungwi
For virgin islands: Excursions to the uninhabited atolls to the south (Safari Blue)
For exclusivity: Chumbe Island (day ecotourism, very well organized)
Frequently asked questions about Tumbatu Island
Can I visit Tumbatu Island on my own without a tour?
It is neither recommended nor practically possible. Tumbatu Island has strict community restrictions on visitors. Arriving on your own without permission or a local guide may result in being asked to leave, or worse, create a conflict with the community. The only responsible and respectful way to attempt to visit Tumbatu is through organized tours that have agreements with the community, or by being invited directly by an inhabitant. The most accessible option is to snorkel the reefs around the island from Nungwi or Kendwa, which does not require landing.
Why doesn't Tumbatu Island want tourists?
The WaTumbatu, the ethnic community that inhabits the island, have consciously chosen to limit tourism in order to preserve their culture, traditions and traditional Swahili way of life. They are a conservative Muslim community who fear that mass tourism, as has happened in other parts of Zanzibar, will destroy their values, ancestral traditions and community autonomy. This decision should be respected as a legitimate right of self-determination. Past experiences with tourists who did not respect their customs have reinforced this position. As the British MuseumIn his collection on Swahili cultures, cultural preservation sometimes requires setting clear boundaries with outside influences.
Are there hotels or accommodation on Tumbatu Island?
No, Tumbatu Island has no tourist accommodations of any kind: no hotels, no guesthouses, no campgrounds. The community has deliberately not developed tourist infrastructure. If you want to explore the Tumbatu area, you should stay on the northwest coast of Zanzibar (Nungwi, Kendwa or Matemwe) and do day trips. From Nungwi, Tumbatu is only 20 minutes away by boat. This configuration is actually beneficial: you enjoy the comfort of good hotels in Zanzibar while making respectful excursions to the reefs of Tumbatu. Attempting to stay on the island without specific invitation would be culturally inappropriate and virtually impossible.