Pemba Zanzibar: Green Island Guide and Diving Paradise
Pemba Zanzibar is the forgotten and wilder sister of the archipelago. Located 50 km north of Unguja (the main island), this 67 km long Pemba Island is known as "the green island" for its lush vegetation and clove plantations. Pemba is the perfect destination for experienced divers and travelers looking for authenticity without mass tourism. In this guide I tell you all about PembaHow to get there, the best dive sites, pristine beaches and real prices.
Why visit Pemba Island
The green islandUnlike Unguja, Pemba is mountainous and covered with clove plantations that produce the 70% of Zanzibar clove. The green hills and the aromatic air of spices create a unique landscape.
World class divingAccording to PADIPemba is among the top 10 dive destinations in Africa. Vertical coral walls, nutrient rich currents and little tourist pressure create exceptional conditions. You will often have the sites to yourself.
Authenticity without filtersThe population lives from agriculture and fishing, not tourism. This means more authentic experiences but less tourist infrastructure. Markets, traditional ceremonies and dhow building are still part of real life, not tourist shows.
How to get to Pemba Zanzibar
By airplane
From Dar es SalaamDaily flights (Coastal Aviation, Auric Air, ZanAir) - 1 hour - 150-250 USD roundtrip
From Zanzibar: Daily flights - 30 minutes - 80-120 USD round trip
Council: Book 2-4 weeks in advance. Flights fill up fast.
By ferry
Azam Marine from Dar es Salaam2-3 times/week - 6-8 hours - 35-50 USD. It is long and can be bumpy, but much cheaper than flying.
Transportation on the island
- Dala-dalas: 0.20-0.80 USD (slow and uncomfortable)
- Cab: Airport to Chake Chake 4-6 USD
- Motorcycle: 10-14 USD/day (international license required)
- Car with driver: 32-48 USD/day (best option)
Best dive sites in Pemba Zanzibar
Misali Island Marine Conservation Area
The jewel of diving in Pemba Zanzibar. Uninhabited island surrounded by pristine reefs.
What you will see: 40+ meter vertical walls, dense corals, barracudas, tuna, turtles, reef sharks, 350+ species of fishes
Level: Intermediate-Advanced : Intermediate-Advanced : Intermediate-Advanced : Intermediate-Advanced Visibility: 20-40 meters : 20-40 meters Cost80-120 USD full day
Manta Point
Best place in Pemba to see 3-4 meter manta rays.
Best time: September-March : September-March Depth: 15-25 meters
Njao Gap (The Wall)
Dramatic vertical wall from 12 meters dropping 50+ meters. Drift dive with strong currents.
Level: Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced : Advanced OccasionallyHammerhead sharks
Recommended dive centers in Pemba Zanzibar
Swahili Divers (the best): Wambaa Beach - 60-80 USD/dive.
Pemba Dive CentreChake Chake - similar prices
ImportantPemba is NOT for beginners. It requires experience (minimum 20 dives).
The best beaches of Pemba Island
Vumawimbi Beach (east coast)
The most photographed. Fine white sand, palm trees, crystal clear turquoise water. Decent snorkeling from the beach.
Lodging: Aiyana Pemba (luxury resort, 300+ USD/night)
Panga ya Watoro Beach (west coast)
Less visited, excellent snorkeling, perfect for sunsets. Difficult access.
Ngezi Beach (north end)
Inside Ngezi Forest Reserve. Unspoiled nature, very isolated, no services. For adventurers.
Kigomasha Beach
Famous for its historic lighthouse. Excellent snorkeling, panoramic views.
What to do besides scuba diving in Pemba Zanzibar
Visit Misali Island (snorkeling): 60-80 USD/day - boat, guide, snorkel, BBQ lunch
Ngezi Forest Reserve10 USD entrance fee + 10-15 USD guide - See Pemba flying fox (endemic bat), flora, birds - 2-3 hours
Clove plantations: 20-30 USD - Less touristic than Unguja, more authentic
Ras Mkumbuu Ruins: 5-10 USD - 14th century Swahili ruins, tombs, pillars, mosque
Local markets: Chake Chake (Tuesday/Friday), Mkoani - Spices, handicrafts, kangas
Where to stay in Pemba Zanzibar
Luxury:
The Manta Resort: 500-1500 USD/night (famous underwater room)
Aiyana Pemba: 300-500 USD/night
Midrange:
Pemba Lodge: 80-120 USD/night (Chake Chake, no beach)
Kervan Saray Pemba: 100-150 USD/night (east coast, beachfront)
Budget:
Sharook Guest House: 30-50 USD/night
Homestays: 15-25 USD/night
ImportantEarly booking. Options are limited.
Best time to visit Pemba Zanzibar
For diving (September-March): Better visibility (25-40m), higher probability of mantas, calm sea.
Dry season (June-October)Less rain, better for land activities, winds from the southeast.
Avoid (March-May): Heavy rains, many hotels closed, roads impassable
Actual costs in Pemba Zanzibar
- Lodging30-500 USD/night
- Local food3-6 USD : 3-6 USD : 10-20 USD : Tourist: 10-20 USD
- Diving: 60-80 USD/dive
- Tours: 40-120 USD
Daily budget:
- Backpacker: 40-60 USD
- Mid-range: 100-150 USD
- Luxury: 300+ USD
Pemba vs Unguja
Pemba better for: Experienced divers, authenticity, crowd avoidance, adventure
Unguja better forFirst visit, tourist infrastructure, Stone Town (UNESCO), more options
IdealCombine both if you have 10+ days (3-4 days Pemba, rest Unguja).
Pemba's real challenges
Limited infrastructure: Few cashiers (carry cash), occasional power outages, limited internet access
Complicated access: Expensive flights or long ferries
Fewer options: Limited menus, less people speak English
MalariaHigher risk than Unguja. Recommended prophylaxis.
If these challenges stress you out, stay in Unguja. If they sound like adventure, Pemba is for you.
Frequently asked questions about Pemba Zanzibar
Is Pemba better than Zanzibar for diving?
Yes, Pemba Island is considerably better than Unguja for experienced divers. Less impacted reefs, more dramatic walls, currents that attract large pelagics and mantas, superior visibility (25-40m vs 15-25m). Sites like Misali and Njao Gap are among the best in East Africa. But it is NOT for beginners - requires minimum Advanced Open Water experience. According to Dive MagazinePemba offers "world class diving without the crowds".
How many days do I need for Pemba?
Minimum 4-5 full days. Less time does not compensate for the effort to get there. Typical itinerary: Day 1 (arrival), Days 2-3 (Misali diving), Day 4 (snorkeling, beaches, Ngezi Forest), Day 5 (plantations, market, flight). Dedicated divers: 7-10 days. If you combine with Unguja: 3-4 days Pemba, 5-7 Unguja in 10-14 days total trip.
Is Pemba safe for tourists?
Yes, Pemba Island is generally safe. Low crime, friendly inhabitants. Standard precautions: do not display valuables, avoid walking alone at night, dress modestly (Muslim island). Major "danger" is logistical - difficult roads, limited infrastructure, malaria (use prophylaxis). According to Tanzania Tourism BoardPemba is as safe as the rest of Zanzibar.
Pemba for true adventurers
Pemba Zanzibar is not for everyone, and that makes it special. If you want all-inclusive resorts and convenience, stay in Unguja. But if you're an experienced diver looking for pristine walls, if you value authenticity over comfort, if you'd rather explore than be entertained, then Pemba will reward you.
This is the Zanzibar of 30 years ago: green, quiet, real. Fishermen build dhows by hand, women pick cloves on family plantations, markets sell to locals. The pace is slow, the logistical challenges are real, but the experience is genuine.
Visit Pemba Island now, while preserving its character, and discover the green island that mass tourism forgot.